Perhaps I’m dating myself, but I remember a time when Liz Phair was a fresh and promising voice in alt-rock, a sultry siren singing of balding lotharios and of being oral royalty. I remember seeing a then-rare, live performance at her alma mater, Oberlin College, in which I became permanently smitten with this smart, sexy, direct woman.

Then came her brief dalliance with The Matrix production team.

In an attempt to gain her more mainstream appeal (and the resulting record-label profits), The Matrix teased out such teeny-bopper atrocities as “Extraordinary” and “Why Can’t I?” And while those songs might have redeeming messages of girl-power and self-confidence, they remain overproduced and contrived. At best.

Anyone who caught her last show at the Fillmore, during the ironically-named Chicks with Attitude tour, saw the worst and blandest of Phair. Popped-out and tween-friendly to the point of caricature, she half-heartedly played to a half-empty room. After the outstanding set by The Cardigans just prior, Phair just looked that much worse.

Which makes me that much happier to write a preview for her latest SF show, also at the Fillmore, on Monday, June 23. You see, Exile in Guyville will be reissued on the 24th, and to mark the occasion, she will be performing the album in its entirety. The other three Guyville shows, in Chicago and New York, are already sold out.

So here’s to coming full circle, another mesmerizing show by the irrepressible Phair, and a night of recaptured glory. Oh, and blow job queens.

Tickets through Live Nation

I’m hardly breaking new ground by reviewing Zuni, but more and more, I’ve run into people who’ve lived in San Francisco for at least a couple of years and have never eaten there. My advice: invite some out-of-town guests to visit and take them to Zuni.

Zuni Café
1658 Market Street (btwn. Franklin and Gough)
415.552.2522

• What kind of food is it? Fresh, sustainably grown / harvested ingredients prepared in French and Italian styles.
• What can you get to drink? Full bar with some spins on classic cocktails (I like the balsamic bloody mary), a one-sheet wine list with a good breadth of choices, nice selection of non-alcoholic beverages.
• Would you eat there again? I do. Probably too frequently.
• Would you eat there once a week (or more)? Short answer: Absolutely. Longer answer: It’s a little pricey for weekly dining. That being said, you can spend under $30 by getting a burger and plate of shoestring fries. Unfortunately, they only serve the burger at lunch or after 10 p.m., but it’s completely worth altering your plans to eat at those times. The burger is wonderful.
• Would you go out of your way to eat there? Yes, yes, a thousand times, yes.
• Would you recommend the place to your friends? I have and will continue to do so.
• Would you take your parents there? The in-laws, even. I’d suggest going after 10 p.m., perhaps after a night at the symphony. Order the caesar salad and some raw oysters to start and the roasted chicken (Sweet Jesus, the chicken!), a burger and fries for entrées. Depending on how much you like your in-laws, I’d also advise a bottle (or three) of wine.
• Would you take a first date there? Absolutely. I’m not going to get along with any girl who doesn’t like the food here.
• Would you take kids? I suppose. Point of fact: the children I’ve seen eating at Zuni are some of the most well-behaved I’ve ever seen. My deepest thanks to those parents.
• Do they take reservations? Yes, and I would highly recommend making them. However, the limited bar seating is first-come, first-served and the full menu is available there.

What more can I say? I’ve never had a bad meal at Zuni. In fact, one night a couple of years ago, they made a truffle burger (hamburger patty studded with chunks of black truffle) that might have been one of my most transcendent burger experiences. I check the menu for that burger to this day.

Before you protest about a totally positive review, I must admit, the chicken was a touch dry the last time I had it, which merely brought it down to the level of a normal restaurant’s instead of head-and-shoulders better as is typical. But, for my money, Zuni is consistently one of the best eateries in The City and will continue to be one of my must-dine-if-you’re-in-San-Francisco restaurants.

Cyrus sits mere steps from Healdsburg Square which itself is mere minutes from dozens of wineries and tasting rooms. And what better way to end a long afternoon of tasting (and spitting, of course) wine than to sit down with an eight-course tasting menu with accompanying wine flight?

To the questions, then…

Cyrus
29 North Street
Healdsburg, CA
707.433.3311

• What kind of food is it? Contemporary French-Cal, complete with Champagne / caviar cart and cheese course.
• What can you get to drink? Full bar with cocktails like the Rhubarbarella, dictionary-thick wine list.
• Would you eat there again? Absolutely. You’re paying, right?
• Would you eat there once a week (or more)? I’ll need to discuss that with my financial advisor.
• Would you go out of your way to eat there? It’s in Healdsburg. I have no choice but to go out of my way to eat there.
• Would you recommend the place to your friends? Yes. The trust-fund friends, at least.
• Would you take your parents there? We did. They enjoyed it immensely. I believe the words “life experience” were used.
• Would you take a first date there? That’s one hell of a first date. I was unaware that Scarlett Johansson was interested in dating me.
• Would you take kids? No. Please, no.
• Do they take reservations? They’re recommended, in fact. However, there is some lovely bar seating available, and you can enjoy many of the menu items without actually sitting down for a full dinner.

Dinner at Cyrus was a stellar dining experience, simple as that. The setting was lovely, the service wonderful, the food delightful. If you’re looking for a splurge restaurant, you could do much, much worse than this little gem nestled along Wine Country’s road less travelled. You could not do much better.

San Francisco Cocktail Week kicks off tonight with a heavenly event at Harry Denton’s Starlight Room at the Sir Francis Drake. Tony Abou-Ganim, noted mixologist and former Starlight Room barman, will return to his old stomping grounds for another round of Cable Cars and well-heeled company. If you’re going to tax your liver anyway, you might as well do it with masterfully mixed cocktails overlooking The City at sunset.

The event runs from 6 pm to 9 pm. More importantly, admission is not only free but includes a complimentary cocktail upon arrival.

The second annual San Francisco Cocktail Week is coming. Running from May 13th – 19th, SFCW celebrates, as the name suggests, cocktails and “the dynamic beverage culture of our community.”

From the Opening Gala at Harry Denton’s Starlight Room to the Closing Party at Absinthe, attendees will be able to learn more about the history of cocktails, observe San Francisco’s bar illuminati in action and, more importantly, sample the essence of their labors. Select restaurants will offer tasting menus with specially paired cocktails. Neighborhood-favorite Elixir will celebrate its 150th anniversary with a tribute to the Sazerac. On the 14th, you’ll even be able to imbibe with the best — renowned guest bartenders from across the country will display their craft at bars around The City.

So put on your drinking shoes (closed-toe highly recommended) and come celebrate San Francisco’s hallowed place at the altar of fine drinkables. Just don’t forget to designate a driver or MUNI navigator.

You won’t find star ratings here. You won’t find a lot of flowery descriptions of food or snarky comments about service. And you especially won’t find any charming back story about how the chef’s first job was cleaning the deep fryers at McDonald’s before securing the financing to open a wildly successful San Francisco bistro.

Instead, you’ll find the answer to ten questions that, to me, encapsulate the San Francisco dining experience:

• What kind of food is it?
• What can you get to drink?
• Would you eat there again?
• Would you eat there once a week (or more)?
• Would you go out of your way to eat there?
• Would you recommend the place to your friends?
• Would you take your parents there?
• Would you take a first date there?
• Would you take kids?
• Do they take reservations?

Our first entry:
Bar Jules (And yes, I know that I got scooped by Michael Bauer at sfgate.com yesterday. Bar Jules deserves all the good press that it gets.)
609 Hayes (at Laguna, next to Suppenküche)
415.621.5482

• What kind of food is it? Fresh California with a French bistro influence.
• What can you get to drink? Wine, beer, Blue Bottle coffee, rosebud tea.
• Eat there again? Absolutely.
• Eat there once a week or more? Sure. Menu changes daily, but it’s a little pricey.
• Go out of your way to eat there? Yes, but it’s more a neighborhood place.
• Recommend to friends? Absolutely.
• Take your parents there? Yes, probably for a weekend lunch.
• Take a first date there? Yes.
• Take kids? Yes, for lunch.
• Take reservations? For parties of 6+ only.

The Wife and I had lunch there on Saturday, and it was wonderful. If they have Meyer Lemon Cake on the menu when you go, get it.

No, really. I don’t care it you don’t have room for dessert; get it.

For those of you who prefer free food that’s free of altruism, Krispy Kreme is offering a free dozen when you buy a dozen. Just print out this coupon and take it to a Krispy Kreme store before May 13.

h/t to slickdeals.net