In this nonfat, organic, vegan, all-natural, so-healthy- I-can’t-stand-it town, some things endure no matter what. Like chocolate.

San Francisco has been famous for chocolate ever since Domingo Ghirardelli opened a factory down by the bay and It’s Its were invented at Playland. But now, in our society of effete consumption, you can’t do any better than Chocoate Covered, the store in Noe Valley.

Run by Jack Epstein (below) for the better part of two decades, the Noe Valley store recently moved a block up the street and is now located near Le Zinc, the shoe repair shop, and the bakery.

The store carries hand-made chocolates from around the US, including truffles buth alcoholic and non-, as well as expensive single-source bars from exotic locales from Cuba to Africa. Man, those are really good.

In addition, Epstein also produces silk-screened tin boxes depicting movie stars and rock stars, as well as San Francisco scenes and — a unique gift — a very large selection of boxes picturing San Francisco street signs. He must have over 200 different designs with signs from the busiest streets to the most obscure. You’re especially likely to find one with the first name of your sweetheart, whether it’s Lily, Alice, Miguel, Teresita, Raymond, Elizabeth or Ellis. You can get the tin filled with the store’s wares.

Chocolate Covered is at 4069  24th St. in Noe Valley. That’s the new address.