At the crest of the hill on Jones at Broadway, above the postcard views of the Bay Bridge, North Beach, and most of the rest of the postcardable City, sits Allegro Romano - and Italian restaurant that reminds why I usually prefer Italian restaurants to nearly any other kind.

Tiny, romantic, and impeccably detailed, Allegro Romano was deceptively quiet when we arrived for our 6:30 reservation. Alone save one other solo diner, I wondered why we needed to call ahead. Within 30 minutes or so I had my answer as the restaurant filled to bursting with other in-the-know diners. That many locals cramming into an isolated neighborhood restaurant on a random weeknight is a sure sign of its quality.

The owner and host lavished us with attention - always appreciated - describing the nightly specials with an adoration usually reserved for pets or priceless works of art.

When I simply couldn’t decide between the gnocchi and the lamb chop, he offered smaller portions of both. It was the best deal I’ve ever taken since each dish was so tasty I’d have been very sad to have missed it. The gnocchi, though, won by a nose - fresh, covered (but not doused) in a rich sauce and dotted with pine nuts, it reminded me of my grandmother’s cooking . . . and that the Trader Joe frozen variety, though good in a pinch, just can’t replicate the gentle doughiness of the fresh stuff. My friend’s sand dabs made her every bit as happy.

Perhaps our we’ve-been-studying-too-much eyes seemed like they needed it - after The. Best. Tiramisu (traditional, non-traditional award still goes to Cinqueterre). Ever. we were presented with complimentary cordials of port and red roses. Heaven doesn’t taste or look much better. Any restaurant that flirts with me after wining and dining me properly earns my undying loyalty.

So whether you just need some mid-week pampering or want to impress a special date (or his or her parents), trek up to Allegro Romano - you won’t be disappointed.

Allegro Romano; 1701 Jones St (at Broadway); (415) 928-4002; entrees between $15-30; good wine selection - bottle and by-the-glass; romantic ambiance.

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