The North Beach Diet
Post ideas come from all kinds of places. And, it doesn’t take too many steps to relate what I’m reading at any given time to this fair city - since things here are about as diverse as one can find . . . .
For instance - today, I read a New York Times article on Italian cooking (the NYT site requires registration - which may be annoying, but has yet to result in undue levels of spam in my inbox). The piece’s thrust is that oft uttered question - so, if Americans keep getting fatter and fatter, and we’re cutting carbs like crazy, how the *#@$%# do Italians stay so thin - hello! Pasta central! (I’ll let you read the article, but the basic answer is that they don’t eat as much pasta and they get off their butts more often - which is the way to go).
All that reading about Italian food, however, made my mind get up from my office and wander out to North Beach to the best eats I’ve had anywhere on Columbus. L’Osteria del Forno, located on Columbus at Green, is about as cozy and date ready as you get. It’s staff is not of the warm, friendly, outgoing Italian mode, but after a few bites of anything the offer, you won’t care - in fact, you’ll be glad for the abuse.
Founded by two women from northern Italy, L’Osteria del Forno’s menu is more extensive than you might think, given it’s tiny, 28 diner capacity. Take a sweater and some good company, as well: it’s common to wait outside for quite awhile for one of the few, small tables. If you like lamb - don’t think, just order the lamb kabob - probably the most perfect preparation I’ve ever enjoyed. Their rigatoni bolognese is incomparable (makes sense since one website lists one of the restaurateurs as being from Bologna.
I try not to repeat restaurants in the city (okay, I can be a rut eater, but there’s a difference between needing a neighborhood burrito and, you know, like, Going Out to Dinner), but I’ve hit L’Osteria twice so far and it’s become my “oh, if you’re coming and you like Italian, you must go here” suggestion. Check it out and share your story. Or if you have other North Beach gems to share - please shoot us a comment!
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Head another block south and try Figaro’s. Corner of Columbus and Vallejo.
Gnocchi. Eat. Three-cheese sauce or funghi sauce. Both will stop your heart. Add a bottle of wine. Peace. Happiness.
Honestly, we don’t repeat restaurants much — why should we when there are so many within walking distance — but when we just want a good meal and we don’t want to hassle with the “Should we try butterfly?” “How about Iluna Basque?” (both yummy excellent, btw), we find ourselves walking down to Figaro’s and ordering gnocchi. The walk back home wears off maybe one tenth of the calories consumed.
Sal, I agree. I’ve been to Figaro’s twice - I come from a gnocchi loving family if ever there was one. The first time I ended up ther accidently - with a group of friends, all of us tired, cold, and soaked, having walked to North Beach from the Chinese New Years Parade in Chinatown. We were drawn in by the friendly Italian at the door, promising us a fast table, good wine, and great food. NINETY minutes later, we didn’t care what we ate. I’m not even sure why we stayed there, I think it just became a test of wills . . . .
To be fair, however, the second time I was there, the food was great and there was no wait. So I’d still recommend it as well . . . .
I also like Bocce . . . .